Kota Kinabalu – A lovely coastal city and a great base for fun activities
When we think of Kota Kinabalu, we always think of that pleasant city by the beach, where there’s always a light breeze. After our first visit, we felt like it was the kind of place we’d love to stay for a longer period. Mainly because there’s just so much to do in and around the city. Over the years, it’s only become more fun and beautiful. When we visited again not long ago, we were once again impressed by how great this destination is. In our opinion, it’s truly an ideal base for at least a week of fun — without feeling like a typical, perhaps underwhelming, city break.
Kota Kinabalu, also known as KK, is the capital of the state of Sabah. With around 600,000 inhabitants, it’s one of the larger cities in Malaysia and the biggest city in Malaysian Borneo. The city offers stunning views of the Crocker Range, which includes Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain in the region. On the other side, you’ve got the small tropical islands close to the coast — perfect for diving, snorkeling, or just relaxing. In recent years, Kota Kinabalu has grown into a lively, modern city. There are several big shopping malls and lots of great restaurants. You’ll also find plenty of local food courts where you can enjoy street-style local dishes.
Kota Kinabalu sits right on the coast and is dotted with beautiful beaches lined with gorgeous resorts, like the ultra-luxurious Tanjung Aru Resort and Rasa Ria Resort. Also great are the Pacific Sutera Hotel and the adjacent Magellan Resort. We stayed there for a few nights, and later spent a few nights at the modern, trendy LUMA Hotel. Another great option is the luxurious Nexus Resort Karambunai, where you can stay in a 5-star hotel at a reasonable price. The seawater around Kota Kinabalu is crystal clear almost everywhere — for example, at Sutera Harbor, you can even spot tropical fish swimming among the boats.
The city is also the perfect gateway to all kinds of activities and attractions in the area. It’s a great starting point for exploring Sabah. Flights from Kuala Lumpur are usually affordable, and the journey only takes around three hours, which isn’t too bad at all.
One question we often hear: “Is Kota Kinabalu worth it?”
Our answer? Absolutely, yes.
It’s a great city, and there’s plenty to see and do to keep you entertained for a few days. Plus, there’s a lot going on in the surrounding area too — we could easily spend a full week there. That said, for many travelers, KK is just the starting point of their adventure through Sabah. So if you’d rather move on quickly, that’s totally fine too.
What is there to do?
If you’re staying in the city for a few days, you can consider the following activities. Some you can do independently (for example, by taking a Grab), while others are often part of an organized day tour or half-day tour that includes a guide and transportation. We usually book these kinds of trips online in advance via the popular Klook.com — they offer a wide range of tours in and around Kota Kinabalu.
One of the biggest highlights is the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park (TAR), located just across from Kota Kinabalu. You can visit the islands as part of a day tour, or go independently by purchasing a boat ticket at the Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal. You can dive and snorkel at various locations, and there are a few resorts and plenty of places to grab something to eat or drink. Some of the islands also have exclusive resorts — perfect for a honeymoon or a stylish end to your vacation.
Besides TAR, you can also book organized snorkeling tours to Dinawan Island, Sepanggar Island, and Mengalum Island.
Every Sunday morning between 6:00 and 13:00, you can visit the Sunday Market along Jalan Gaya in the city center. For cheap local souvenirs, check out the Handicraft Market (formerly the Filipino Market) along Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens, which is open daily.
You can catch the most beautiful sunset at Tanjung Aru Beach. The atmosphere is great in the evenings, and you can also grab a bite at the Tanjung Aru Night Market, with all kinds of food stalls — delicious satay, soto ayam, and more. It’s often not that busy during the day, but it gets really lively in the evening as sunset approaches. We had a gorgeous sunset, although there were some clouds toward the end. There’s a square full of tables, and many restaurants have their own terraces. There’s also a special terrace right on the beach where you have to pay for a table — but the view is totally worth it.
The Kota Kinabalu Waterfront is a lively boulevard full of eateries, small stalls, shops, and more. It’s a great place to take a stroll, especially in the evening. A bit further along, you’ll find the Kota Kinabalu Central Market, with dozens of stalls selling fresh fruit, fish, herbs, and other local products. It’s also a nice and cozy place to visit in the evening. Right next to it is the Todak Waterfront Hawker Center, where you can enjoy local food.
An absolute must-do is the North Borneo Sunset Cruise. You’ll board a luxury boat at Sutera Harbor and head out to sea to watch the sunset from the best vantage point. It’s a fun and relaxing outing, with a delicious buffet and a great live band playing in the background.
The Signal Hill Observatory offers one of the best views of the city and surrounding area. (Note: you can no longer go to the original viewing point at the very top, but there are still several spots along the hill with great views over the city.) In the distance, you can see several of the tropical islands that are part of the TAR Marine Park. For an even better view, head to Kokol Hill, which has a few attractions and activities — you can easily spend a half-day or full day there.
The Masjid Bandaraya Mosque is a beautiful mosque just outside the city center, and it’s especially stunning around sunset — perfect for photos. Nearby, you’ll also find Taman Awam Teluk Likas, a seaside park where locals come to walk, relax, and sunbathe. It gets lively on weekends, with food stalls on the beach. There’s also a food court and some familiar spots like McDonald’s and ZUS Coffee.
About two hours from Kota Kinabalu is Kinabalu National Park, where you can climb Mount Kinabalu (4,092.5 meters tall — one of the highest mountains in Southeast Asia). There are also plenty of sights in the surrounding area, like the Poring Hot Springs, the Kundasang Highlands, and the rugged nature around Tegudon, near Kota Belud.
South of Kota Kinabalu is the village of Papar, which you can reach by an authentic train from the city. Papar offers great food — a nice bonus after a fun train ride. This trip is also available as a half-day tour that starts and ends at your hotel in Kota Kinabalu. (We did this and really enjoyed it — fun, informative, and delicious!)
Further south, you’ll find the Klias Wetlands, a river delta surrounded by mangroves. It’s a fun day trip, where you’ll cruise down the river with the chance to spot all kinds of animals and birds — think proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, otters, macaques, hornbills, and more. If you’re lucky, the guide might even spot a snake hanging in a tree. Afterward, there’s a night cruise along a stretch of the river full of fireflies.
In the same area, there’s also Weston Wetland Park, near the hamlet of Weston. The setup is similar, and there are daily tours from KK.
Another fun and educational experience is visiting a cultural village. There are several in the Kota Kinabalu area. Nearby, there’s the Monsopiad Heritage Village, which focuses on the life of the headhunters. A bit further away is the Mari Mari Cultural Village, and near Papar you’ll also find the Borneo Cultural Village. If you want to learn more about Borneo and its indigenous people, these cultural experiences are definitely worth it. (We visited the Borneo Cultural Village as part of a day tour that also included the Klias Wetlands — it was a really fun and interesting day.)
If you’re up for a bit of adventure, try white water rafting on the Kiulu River. The river has fun rapids and calmer stretches, and daily rafting tours depart regularly. The Grade II level makes it perfect for families with kids. It’s about an hour’s drive from Kota Kinabalu, and tours are offered by Riverbug.
Shopping in Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu is a fairly large city, and like every big city in Malaysia, it has plenty of large shopping centers. Locals often spend their weekends hanging out in the malls — not just for the shops, but also for the restaurants, cinema, bowling alley, arcades, and other attractions.
One shopping center stands out above the rest: Imago Shopping Mall. If you love shopping, this is the only mall you really need to visit. All the well-known brands are here, and because it’s so centrally located, you can easily get there on foot or by Grab.
Other popular malls in the city include Suria Sabah and City Mall Shopping Center, though neither really compares to Imago. Several other shopping centers in town aren’t quite worth visiting anymore, although locals still go there for the small, often specialty, shops.
Delicious food and drinks
You’re spoiled for choice in Kota Kinabalu — from delicious local food at the many food courts to luxurious dinners at fine-dining restaurants. The luxury resorts are great places to dine, but it’s a good idea to make reservations in advance.
If you head to Tanjung Aru for the sunset, be sure to stop by the Tanjung Aru Beach Night Market. You’ll find dozens of stalls offering a wide variety of snacks. Locals often grab takeaway here, but you can also eat right at the stall or on the beach.
Grace Point Food Court is one of the most popular food courts in Kota Kinabalu. It has many stalls, lots of variety, and is very affordable. It’s also a modern and clean-looking food court (Pak Wan Nasi Lemak is highly recommended!).
Another fun spot is the Api Api Night Food Market along Gaya Street, open every Friday and Saturday evening from 6 p.m. to midnight. Unlike the Gaya Street Sunday Market, this one is all about food. It’s always a cozy and lively place with live music.
For the best seafood dishes, check out Welcome Seafood — a true Kota Kinabalu institution for many years. Expect long queues around dinnertime, but luckily, there are rows of chairs along the side of the restaurant where you can wait.
Another great spot is the Todak Waterfront Hawker Center, conveniently located in the city center (right by the quay — Waterfront). Just a bit further down is KK Waterfront, which is a more upscale area with restaurants. It’s not a food court, but it does have a nice atmosphere.
Less centrally located — but still very popular with locals — are food courts like Kolombong Food Court, Jia Hua Food Court, Teluk Likas Food Court, and Lido Square. Grab can get you there in no time and also bring you back to your accommodation afterward.
Most shopping centers also have good food courts. While they may lack a bit of atmosphere, the food is usually great. Locals often eat there during a shopping day — usually at the basement level. There’s a solid food court in Imago Shopping Mall, and another one in Centre Point Mall.
Dim sum lovers should head to New WK Restaurant, which has been topping restaurant lists in KK for years. If you don’t feel like traveling too far, there’s also a branch in Suria Sabah.
CHUBS is a great spot for burgers and a variety of other tasty dishes. It’s a cozy place with reasonable prices — also great for lunch.
For a fine dining experience, check out OITOM, which is considered the most luxurious (and best-rated) restaurant in Kota Kinabalu. Perfect for foodies or if you’re celebrating something special. They offer two tasting menus — one with 12 courses and another with 9 courses. You can also opt for a wine or mix pairing. We went for the 12-course menu with mix pairing and it was truly unforgettable — an amazing experience we’d recommend to everyone.
There are also plenty of trendy coffee bars in the city. We’re not too picky anymore and find the coffee at most places to be just fine. Some favorites: October Coffee Gaya, Nook Cafe, The Bean Cafe, Woo!, Flow Coffee, and Lumière Coffee & Pastry.
We’re also cocktail lovers — it just fits perfectly with the holiday vibe. Plus, the cocktail scene in Malaysia has really taken off. A great cocktail bar usually gets everything right — stunning decor, creative drinks, and sometimes an amazing view. In KK, you’ll find several great ones: ON23 Sky Bar (Hyatt Centric), Sky Blu Bar (Grandis Hotel), and Horizons Sky Bar (The Pacific Sutera Hotel). All three are highly recommended!
Accommodations: Where is the best place to stay?
Since we travel as a family, we often choose a (luxury) Airbnb with at least two bedrooms, a spacious kitchen, and a swimming pool to cool off in after a day full of activities. In Kota Kinabalu, you’ll find a wide range of apartments to choose from, although you often have to book well in advance — the real gems tend to get snapped up quickly (we prefer to book about six months ahead).
There are also plenty of beautiful resorts in and around Kota Kinabalu, especially along the popular beaches. Think wide, kilometer-long stretches of beach with a row of palm trees behind them and a resort nestled right there. Some resorts charge a few hundred euros per night, but there are also several affordable 5-star hotels and resorts. Good examples include The Pacific Sutera Hotel, The Magellan Sutera Resort, and the stunning Nexus Resort & Spa Karambunai. You can sometimes book these gems from just €75 per room per night via the well-known hotel booking sites.
There are also several good hotels in the city center. In Kota Kinabalu, a 5-star hotel often costs well under €100 per room per night. We’ve stayed at the lovely The LUMA Hotel several times, and for a short, hassle-free stay, we’d definitely go back again. It’s modern, luxurious, centrally located, and has beautiful rooms — and if you book early, it’s quite affordable.
Here’s an overview of popular hotels and resorts in Kota Kinabalu (view all accommodations in Kota Kinabalu):
Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa: A luxury resort with a beautiful view of the South China Sea, known for its world-famous sunsets.
Shangri-La Rasa Ria: This luxury resort may be located on the most beautiful beach in Kota Kinabalu. Truly the ultimate in enjoyment.
The Magellan Sutera Resort: A fine resort with extensive facilities, including a golf course and marina.
The Pacific Sutera Hotel: A modern resort-style hotel, ideal if you are visiting Kota Kinabalu with children.
Nexus Resort & Spa Karambunai: A remote resort with a 6-km-long private beach, perfect for those seeking tranquility.
Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu: A stylish hotel in the heart of the city, known for its rooftop bar with a panoramic view.
Gaya Island Resort: A luxury island resort that is part of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, ideal for nature lovers and diving and snorkeling enthusiasts.
Hyatt Centric Kota Kinabalu: A trendy hotel in the center of Kota Kinabalu, right across from the Suria Sabah mall. The cool ON23 Sky Bar is located on the roof.
Kota Kinabalu Marriott Hotel: Luxurious 5 star hotel in the center of KK. Enjoy world-class service for an affordable price.
The LUMA Hotel: A trendy boutique hotel in the center of Kota Kinabalu. A perfect base from which to explore and we enjoyed our stay there very much.
Hyatt Regency Kinabalu: A lovely luxury hotel in the center of Kota Kinabalu, right on the Waterfront quay.
Mercure Kota Kinabalu: A nice and affordable hotel in the center of Kota Kinabalu, within walking distance of various highlights.
Best time to visit
Although you can visit Kota Kinabalu all year round, the best time to go is roughly between February and September. The rest of the year sees a mild rainy season, with the most rain usually falling in November and December. That said, the difference isn’t extreme — there’s not much more rain than in other months, and it rarely interferes with tourist activities. Of course, you’re in the tropics, so rain is part of the deal — and it can still pour for hours even during the “dry” season. But in Sabah, that’s no reason to skip the area during certain months.
Kota Kinabalu is a popular destination for tourists from the region, especially from Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore. The Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park islands get especially busy during local holidays and school breaks. Boat trips may be canceled temporarily during bad weather, but usually, it’s just a matter of waiting for the weather to clear.
Transport in and around Kota Kinabalu
For a relatively small city, traffic in Kota Kinabalu can be pretty bad. There are three large parallel roads that run through the city, and you’ll almost always need to use one of them. It’s often congested, especially during rush hour — particularly around Waterfront, Jesselton Ferry Terminal, and the Imago Shopping Mall area.
Most people use Grab to get around the city. It’s compact enough that there’s usually a driver nearby, though it can take longer during peak hours. Grab is still cheap and convenient. Just make sure you’re standing on the correct side of the road when you book, or even on a side where the driver can reach you faster — even if it means walking a little. Outside of rush hour, Grab is quick and efficient. Some hotels or resorts also offer shuttle services as an alternative.
How to get there?
The only way to travel from Peninsular Malaysia to Malaysian Borneo is by plane. There are several daily flights from Kuala Lumpur and other cities to Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA). It’s a small but pleasant airport, with a few shops and restaurants where you can grab a simple meal. Like many smaller airports, boarding and disembarking are usually quick and easy. The flight from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu takes about 2.5 hours.
Four airlines fly this route: Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia, Batik Air, and Firefly.
- Malaysia Airlines departs from KLIA T1
- AirAsia from KLIA T2
- Batik Air from KLIA T1 and Subang Airport
- Firefly only from Subang Airport
There are several flights daily to Kota Kinabalu. The nice thing is that many luxury resorts are just a 10-minute drive from the airport. Within Sabah and Sarawak, MASwings (soon to be rebranded to AirBorneo) operates flights to places like Tawau, Sandakan, Lahad Datu, Sibu, Bintulu, Miri, Kuching, and more. One minor downside is that you’ll hear planes coming and going throughout the day. This is less noticeable if you’re staying outside the city. The airport is actually within city limits, and the flight path goes directly over the city.
You can also rent a car at Kota Kinabalu Airport if you want to explore the area on your own. Roads are in decent condition now, though they’re not quite as smooth as those on the peninsula. You don’t need a 4×4 in Sabah, but it can be handy to have.
Kota Kinabalu International Airport
Kota Kinabalu Airport is located right in the city, and the flight path runs directly overhead. On arrival, everything is fairly well organized. You walk straight out after Immigration (yes, you’ll go through it even when flying domestically to Sabah or Sarawak). The Arrival Hall is basic — a few kiosks, rental car counters, telecom providers, toilets, and ATMs. You can also book a Grab here, and most hotels are only a short drive away.
The Departure Hall is larger, with check-in counters and baggage drop for each airline. There are also a few shops, including McDonald’s, 7-Eleven, and a drugstore. After Immigration, you’ll find a few more shops and restaurants before boarding.
Tips
- If you’re feeling adventurous, you could also consider visiting Mengalum Island. It’s much farther from the coast (about 1 hour by boat). At the moment, you can only go there on a day trip, but accommodations will probably be built there in the future. You can easily book the Mengalum snorkeling tour in advance via Klook.com.
- In a city like Kota Kinabalu, everyone uses Grab. Book a Grab Premium if you want more travel security (basic rides can sometimes get canceled).
- The islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park are great for a day trip, but there are many more beautiful islands near Kota Kinabalu. The farthest one is the stunning Mantanani Island (we went there — it was amazing!). Closer by, you have the beautiful Dinawan Island, Tiga Island, Mengalum Island (no accommodations, only for day trips), and Sepanggar Island.
- Kadaiku is a local product shop where you’ll find plenty of souvenirs and handicrafts. It’s located near the KK Central Market.
- Since Kota Kinabalu is by the sea, seafood dishes are a local specialty. At all the food courts, you’ll find a huge selection of fresh fish and seafood, usually prepared on the spot with a marinade.
- If fish isn’t your thing, don’t worry — there are plenty of other options. There’s always a stall selling satay, roasted chicken legs, laksa, and lots of other typical Malaysian dishes.
- The largest flower on earth, the Rafflesia, can be found just outside Kota Kinabalu at the Tambunan Rafflesia Information Center. If you’re lucky, you might even catch one in bloom. If you’re planning a visit, go in the morning and check the Sabah Forestry Facebook page first to see if there’s a blooming flower — it’s quite rare!
- At Sutera Harbour, you’ll find Blackfin Fishing Charter, where you can book a deep-sea fishing trip.
- About a 45-minute drive from Kota Kinabalu is Kampung Serusup, where you can take the Tembara River Cruise. You can go by boat or paddle through the mangroves by kayak. The view of Mount Kinabalu is especially stunning on a clear day. After sunset, you can also spot fireflies. You can book this fun tour on Klook.com.
- If something goes wrong, you can go to one of the many clinics in and around Kota Kinabalu. If it’s more serious, just take a Grab to Gleneagles Hospital. It’s a private hospital, and you’ll find out the costs on the spot. If you need to be hospitalized, check if your insurance covers Gleneagles — if not, you can always go to the public (and excellent) Queen Elizabeth Hospital, which is nearby.
- There’s a parking lot at Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal if you’re heading there by rental car. It’s paid parking, but it’s secure.
- Leave for the airport on time, even though the distance between the airport and the city is short. The ride itself takes no more than 15 minutes by Grab from the center. But for example, we once had only one Malaysia Airlines check-in counter open with just two desks, which made the process really slow. Also, all MAS and MASwings flights share the same baggage drop.
- Grab taxis run 24/7, but in the middle of the night, you might have to wait a bit longer. Fares are also a bit higher at night. A lot of older uncles drive in the evenings and at night to earn some extra money. For our early morning flight at 7 a.m., we took a Grab to the airport at 5:30 a.m. — worked out perfectly. We just booked the Grab at 5:25 a.m., and a few minutes later, it was waiting in front of our hotel.
- Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal is the tourist harbor where boats depart to the various islands. In the past, you’d get approached by several touts when you arrived, but now it’s pretty well organized. Someone usually greets you at the entrance of the ticket office to guide you. No big deal — you just walk up to the counters and buy the ticket you want.
- You can’t go wrong with the restaurants along Gaya Street. In the evenings, you’ll often see long queues, and the same goes for breakfast or lunch at the Sunday market. Dishes usually cost no more than RM10, and you’ll find just as many locals eating there as tourists.
Suggestions?
Got any good tips to share with us? Do you know of any great things to do in Sabah, or tips on the best places to eat? Let us know by leaving a reply below!